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$\"Fernando$ Fernando Alonso, delante de su pescadería. Al fondo, uno de los pescaderos y clientes habituales | Foto: xlavapies.com

La suerte está echada y un referente del comercio de proximidad madrileño como Pescaderías Alofer (calle de la Esgrima, 8) cerrará en una fecha aún indeterminada del próximo año.

Fernando Alonso, tercera generación de la misma familia de origen maragato al frente de este popular negocio, llega a la edad de jubilación el próximo mes de abril y será poco más o menos por entonces, dentro de siete meses, cuando ponga punto y final a un comercio que abrió un hermano de su abuela poco antes de 1936, pasó a manos de su padre, luego a uno de sus hermanos y, finalmente, recayó en él, el último de una saga de sacrificados tenderos que han convertido su modesto establecimiento en un símbolo reconocible de Lavapiés.

"Aún queda mucho", comenta Alonso confirmando que la noticia del cierre de Alofer, adelantada a xLavapiés.com por uno de los muchos lugares de hostelería a los que sirve pescado, va en serio.

No serán pocos los clientes que llorarán el adiós de esta pescadería de 11 empleados, una institución que goza de buena salud tras haber superado con solvencia crisis económicas, cambios demográficos, transformaciones urbanas y nuevas tendencias de consumo, pero que no sobrevivirá a la marcha de su actual timonel.

$\"Pescaderos$ Pescaderos trabajando | Foto: xlavapies.com

RUMORES DE VENTA DEL EDIFICIO

La edad no perdona y, aunque muchos de sus clientes eran muy conscientes de que Fernando Alonso iba cumpliendo años, no era descabellado pensar que alguno o algunos de los pescaderos que trabajan en Alofer desde hace años pudieran recoger el testigo y dar continuidad al negocio. Siendo esto más un deseo de su parroquia que algo real, cualquier duda al respecto queda despejada de boca del propio Fernando Alonso, quien lleva desde los 12 años trabajando en la pescadería y dice haberse ganado el derecho a descansar mientras bromea con que la culpa de su incipiente chepa la tiene el peso del tiempo laboral que cargan sus hombros.

Se da la circunstancia de que el edificio entero del número 8 de Esgrima, en cuyos bajos se encuentra la pescadería, es propiedad de la familia Alonso -del mismo Fernando, pero también de sus hermanos y de alguno de sus primos-, por lo que una vez que se jubile lo más probable es que se opte por la venta de la totalidad del inmueble. "Con el edificio se hará lo que decida la familia, pero la pescadería se cierra", comenta Alonso en declaraciones a xLavapiés.

$\"Edifico$ Edifico del número 8 de Esgrima | Foto: xlavapies.com

FRESCURA, ESPECTÁCULO Y RESISTENCIA

En Pescaderías Alofer ni hay ni ha habido nunca marketing sofisticado ni luces de neón: su reclamo es la frescura y calidad del producto, el trato directo, unos precios moderados y la destreza en el corte de unos pescaderos que, por si lo anterior fuera poco, ofrecen espectáculo haciendo volar las comandas, con precisión milimétrica, de un lado a otro del mostrador e, incluso, por encima de las cabezas de la clientela. Esta vistosa peculiaridad les ha dado identidad y fama, aunque la verdadera magia del lugar comienza cada día en Mercamadrid, en los madrugones que sirven a Fernando para escoger las mejores piezas con las que alimentar al barrio.

$\"Precios$ Precios populares | Foto: xlavapies.com

En un contexto en el que las pescaderías de toda la vida han ido desapareciendo poco a poco, Alofer es una rara avis muy popular no sólo en Lavapiés sino en buena parte del distrito Centro, algo que atestiguan las largas colas que se suelen producir ante este establecimiento de estética modesta y dependientes que llaman a la clientela por su nombre y que desayunan temprano cada día a la vuelta de la esquina, en otro clásico de la zona como es el bar A'lareira.

Alofer, puente entre pasado y presente del pequeño comercio, entre oficio y comunidad, entre sabor y memoria; reducto ingentrificable.

Quedan, aproximadamente, siete meses antes de que Lavapiés se quede sin mar.

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